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Old 12-09-2011, 09:52 PM   #61
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this doesn't sound good. don't count on that ms wheel too soon @smokinmaster
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Old 13-09-2011, 12:02 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by tescoru View Post
this doesn't sound good. don't count on that ms wheel too soon @smokinmaster

Damn NOOOOOO again
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Old 13-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #63
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well, our hope is in german engineering and Chinese manufacture.

package has been in Barking for a while now, will know soon.
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Old 13-09-2011, 09:36 AM   #64
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When did it get to Barking? Mine (More or less) the day after it got there.
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Old 13-09-2011, 10:09 AM   #65
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New power supply is on it's way. Hopefully will recieve before the weekend as I have a free weekend.
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Old 13-09-2011, 03:07 PM   #66
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Well I can't fault their service. Power supply was sent out via UPS, UPS confirmation recieved and new power supply due on Thursday.

@tescoru: Are you quiet because you have it?
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Old 13-09-2011, 06:13 PM   #67
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Can safely say it was the power pack and not the wheel that failed...yes I'm one of those who take things apart

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 13-09-2011, 06:17 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by totlxtc View Post
Can safely say it was the power pack and not the wheel that failed...yes I'm one of those who take things apart

Click the image to open in full size.

lol, I did the exact same thing with my first wheel when it failed and managed to fix the problem, which was a defective wiring loom, so now I have a back up wheel if my replacement fails.
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Old 13-09-2011, 06:34 PM   #69
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Good for peace of mind too. Happy now I know it was just the psu.
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Old 14-09-2011, 08:51 PM   #70
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Mines been holidaying in barking the past few days. no idea where it is. will hassle ups tomorrow.

@totlxtc did your psu short on the case?
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Old 14-09-2011, 10:32 PM   #71
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Oh! My psu arrived at barking this morning and scheduled for delivery tomorrow. We can courier race

The is a sort of copper coated plastic around the unit. The copper is on the exterior. The part sorted on the plastic type cover not the exterior casing.
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Old 15-09-2011, 12:39 PM   #72
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Wheel turned up today. Not blown up yet

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  CONGRATS MATE!
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Old 15-09-2011, 12:56 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by tescoru View Post
Wheel turned up today. Not blown up yet

I hope it wont mate!

I got the PSU through about an hour ago too happy days!
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Old 15-09-2011, 08:35 PM   #74
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Congrats lads keep at it you will get there My new fanatec is in the post to along with a few other things an now mashing my teeth for this .
I would have reped you but I cant rep.

Andy
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Old 16-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #75
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All smooth sailing so far. Got iRacing, is that ever difficult
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Old 16-09-2011, 02:57 PM   #76
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Yeah mine is now working all good and well.

Oddly took to clutch like a duck out of water. Not a problem there. Real issue im having is braking. 90% of the time im braking too little and the other 10% too late.

But im doing hotlaps around chasing my ghosts and alot of places with the wheel im faster. The smoother steering makes a huge difference. Got a long night of practice tonight and plan to do my first clean lap. Feels like I have never played a race game before!
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Old 16-09-2011, 07:15 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Warrior View Post
Congrats lads keep at it you will get there My new fanatec is in the post to along with a few other things an now mashing my teeth for this .
I would have reped you but I cant rep.

Andy

Thanks andy. Had about a messy hour last night. Tonight been on for an hour and doing lap after lap. Just done my first clean laps and was 2 tenths off my best. Very happy now. Bloody hard having to relearn everything!!
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Old 17-09-2011, 02:37 PM   #78
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For the new owners of this wheel this thread is worth a read

Fanatec 911 Wheel - Forza

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  Thanks for the link! Great help!
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Old 19-09-2011, 11:11 AM   #79
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Thanks Tesco!!!!

The following post by Slim helped so much on the setting and having drift mode on lvl 1 makes it a whole different level!

Originally Posted by Slim View Post
Nice one! Make sure you get the most upto date firmware from thomas's blog http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/3580 It adds more features to the on the fly tuning menu on the wheel. Will post my settings in here as a starting point, see what you think and change as you wish.

S_1 to S_5 These are the five different groups of settings you can store. So you could have one for each game or a couple for the same game but one for r class cars (less steering rotation) and one for drifting.

Within each of the 5 settings groups there are 7 settings that can be changed (only with the updated firmware, earlier firmware doesn't have as many), these are:

SEn : This is the maximum lock to lock rotation of the wheel and can be changed from 90 to 900 degrees in 10 degree steps. I mainly use the 900 degree mode, except with R class cars where 360 seems better to me. If you are going to use 900 degree mode, the wheel needs to be in 900 degree mode each time the wheel connects to your xbox. Changing from any other rotation value to 900 degrees whilst in game will result in the 900 degree mode not working properly. Easy way to solve this is to put the wheel into 900 degree mode, power of the wheel with the button on the side, power it back on , press the xbox guide button to reconnect the wheel and xbox. Anothe general tip is to never turn the xbox on with the wheel, always turn the xbox on via the button on the xbox first and then turn the wheel on and then connect using the xbox guide button on the wheel.

ff : This is the strength of the force feedback. It can be changed in 10 % steps from 0 to 100. The wheel has strong forcefeedback and I normally set it to 40%.

sho : This is the vibration function of two vibration fucntions motors in the wheel rim and can be set in 10% steps form 0 to 100. It's linked to the accelerator pedal in Forza and other general vibration stuff. I turn it off as it gets on my tits!!

dri : Fanatec call this drift mode as it was implemented to help drifting but is very useful in general driving as well. It can be changed in single steps of 1 to 5. What it does is reduces the damping of the wheel as the value increases. Basically it reduces the amount of force required to counter steer. The motors in this wheel are strong and with dri set to zero it actually takes quite a bit of effort to conter steer when you get the back end out. Increasing this value makes it much easier to counter steer. I set it 4 but I'm still learning about the best way to use it, so that may change in the future.

AbS : This is a clever little feature and changes depending on whether or not you have the clubsport pedals or not. It is changeable in 1 % steps from 0 to 100 and induces a vibration at the percentage of braking force you set. So if you set the value to 50, vibration will occur when you reach 50% braking force. Without the clubsport pedals the two vibration motors in the wheel rim vibrate and with the clubsport pedals a vibration motor attached to the brake pedal vibrates. I set this to 80% as I feel the wheels start to lock from about 82% onwards. So in essence this enables you to feel when you are about to lock your brakes. Very good feature of the wheel in my opinion.

Lin : This is how linear the wheel is across it's rotation. It's change in 1 % steps from 0 to 100. It's not easy to explain but basically means you can set the wheel to be less sensitive at its centre than at it's outside. This means you can have the rotation set to say 360, but at 30 degrees either side of the centre position turning the wheel results in only a slight rotation of the wheel in game. The further you get from the centre point the more the wheel turns in game relative to the lin percentage you set. Rubbish explanation I know. Personally I don't use it.

dEA : This is a feature that lets you set a deadzone at the centre of the wheel and is changeable in 10% steps from 0 to I don't know actually! It's been introduced in this firmware release because of the lack of a mechanical deadzone at the centre of the wheel due to it being belt driven rather than gear driven. All gear driven wheels have a slight mechanical deadzone at the centre as a result of the teeth of the gear cogs. This has caused issues with GT5P in particular where with the wheel centred driving in a straight line would result in the wheel swinging fron side to side due to force feedback effects becasue PD had not tested the game with the wheel so were not aware it had no dead zone. All wheels PD tested had some inherent mechanical deadzone which meant at it's centre positon the wheel did not report any values and a forcefeedback response from the game did not result. With the Fanatecs lacks of deadzone it is very difficult to keep it exaclty centred. This would result in the wheel reporting a small steering angle to the game and the game, taking into account the expected deadzone, would thing a much larger steering angle was in effect would send a force feedback signal back to the wheel to centre it even though it was close to centre. This force feedback effect would send the wheel off centre the other way creating another steering angle the game would see as larger than it was resulting in an even bigger force feedback signal being set to the wheel. This would all snowball resulting in the wheel swinging from sise to side when trying to drive in a straight line. Thomas has assured us that PD have tested the wheel with GT5 and the issue will not be present when released. I haven't tested it enough to know what a good value is but I would imagine 10 - 30 would be enough.

Hopefull this hasn't bored you to tears and has helped a little. I was a bit confused when I first got the wheel and it took me a while to understand what all the settings were. Obviously you will find the settings that you like but hopefully it will give you a decent reference point.

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